Rivers End

    By Linda Brink

 

 

            The crew of J.C. Waters and Joy Waters, Ken and Linda Brink returned to Counce, Tennessee on 7 January 2006. The schooner had been moored at Grand Harbor Marina in Pickwick Lake.  Joining the crew there were newcomers Cindy and Ron Strahm.  They also own a sailboat and enjoy sailing in the Bahamas.

 

            The next day, Sunday was spent getting the boat ready to leave by Monday. The rental car was returned to Florence, Alabama, while the Strahms return theirs in Savannah Tennessee. Then the crew undertakes a grocery-shopping trip to stock up on food for the trip. 

 

            Before the break, J.C. had winterized the water system, so when the crew returned to the boat, the water looked like pink lemonade. It took a lot of use to get the pink out of the water system!

 

            At the beginning of the journey, the weather was extremely hot, but now it was very, very cold. As long as we have electricity, the crew can keep warm with heaters. Once we leave port, we are on our own—there were no heating capabilities.

 

            After a breakfast of waffles, which the ring-billed gulls enjoyed with the left-overs, the crew practiced the procedure in tossing the rope ashore in order to tie up at a dock.  We also practiced the use of the dinghy in assisting the docking procedure.

 

But finally we were ready to depart Grand Harbor in Tennessee at 10:30 a.m. There were 449.7 miles ahead to reach the Gulf of Mexico. We have traveled upriver on the Tennessee, but soon the Tennessee would turn east toward Knoxville, Tennessee. The schooner instead entered the Tombigbee Waterway. This waterway links the Tennessee River with the Gulf of Mexico, and it was completed in 1984. And we have entered the state of Mississippi.

 

After the waterway crossed under Mississippi Highway Bridge 25, a portion called the Divide Cut began. It was like a long narrow canal with 280 feet of water from bank to bank. It extended for twenty-four miles. There was not too much traffic—only a houseboat and one tug. Between 1940-1984 the canal   was under construction, but with its completion, the waterway provided an alternate route (besides the Mississippi River) to the Gulf.

 

At mile 414, we entered Bay Springs Lake.  There were many coves and inlets, which would provide swimming, boating, and fishing possibilities during suitable weather.

 

            The schooner headed toward Whitten Lock & Dam. We anchored in the inlet just starboard side of the lock. The cooking crew made pot roast in the pressure cooker, which was ready in forty-five minutes. With six crew members, there was lively conversation and laughs about some of life’s experiences. Joy and Cindy volunteered for anchor watch that first night.

 

            On Tuesday morning, the schooner went through the Whitten Lock, and we were proceeding downward toward the gulf coast. Going down in the locks was much, much easier than going up. Today the boat would enter five more locks each about five miles apart. The Whitten Lock (#1) dropped us eight-five feet! It would be the highest drop for us. In the United States, this is the ninth highest single lift lock.

 

            Immediately after the lock, we pass under the Jamie L. Whitten Bridge, which is where the Natchez Trace Parkway passed over the Tenn-Tom Waterway. The Trace was once an Indian trail that became a road between Natchez and Nashville, Tennessee.

 

            The next lock (#2) was Montgomery, and John Rankin Lock followed (#3). The Fulton Lock was a mile 391.0, and as the schooner headed toward the next lock, we passed many areas where there existed standing timber or where timber cut before the lake was created was left to lie. These areas were great for wildlife. We saw a badger or similar animal swimming toward the bank where he probably had his den. On the standing timber around sunset, we observed flocks and flocks of cormorants flying in V formation and coming in to roost on the branches. Their outline and that of the trees made an interesting contrast with the light-colored sky background.

 

            The crew anchored again starboard above the lock. Joy, Linda, and Cindy volunteered for anchor watch. About 3:00 a.m., a tug came through the lock. It passed the stern of the schooner in what seemed only about 20 feet of clearance.  At about 5:00 a.m. a thick fog moved in, which would delay our departure.

 

            Today was Wednesday, and after a breakfast of scrambled eggs, we waited until about 10:55 for departure. The anchor was terribly muddy from the river bottom so the crew undertook the task of washing the anchor chain as it was brought aboard.

 

            The schooner passed through the Wilkins Lock, and the birds observed along the following stretch of waterway included a Kingfisher, Bald Eagle, Ring-billed gulls, Bufflehead duck, and a flock of White pelicans. We would begin to see the Black Vulture along with the more common Turkey Vulture.  All day would be very cold.

 

            We passed a large industrial plant that had giant machinery to grind up trees into pulp. We passed what looked more like a nature wildlife area with lots of dead trees and stumps. We could easily see the mistletoe in the bare trees. Again cormorants would perch on the dead timber and sun themselves.

 

            We watched all day as jet trainers flew above executing practice drills. Columbus (Mississippi) Air Force Base is located near this part of the river. During World War II, the base was used to train pilots. The base was closed but was reopened in 1951 to provide training for the Korean Conflict. In 1955 the base became part of SAC (Strategic Air Command) and home to a KC-135 tanker squadron and a B-52 bomber squadron. It resumed training pilots in 1969, and presently it trains one-third of all new U.S. Air Force pilots. The two kinds of jet trainers that we saw were the T-37, which is the first trainer an Air Force pilot experiences and the T-38, which introduces the pilot to supersonic and high altitude flight.

 

For the night’s anchoring, the spot recommended was at marker 343.7 under the power lines. We entered the narrow channel, which was part of the old river before the modification of the Tenn-Tom waterway. We entered about 100 yards and anchored. After the boat was secure, Joy, Cindy, and Linda took off in the dinghy to explore.  The area had a heavy growth of pine trees and other deciduous trees. We saw a Yellow flicker and a woodpecker—perhaps it was a Sapsucker.

 

            It was growing colder as the sun began to set. After about forty-five minutes, we came out on the main channel so we had circled a small island. Joy put the dinghy in high gear, and we flew back to the schooner.

 

            After light conversation, a dinner of chicken and dumpling soup, and freezing weather, some crew members turn in. Reading was the bunk pastime, but one had to wear gloves to keep one’s hand warm. Snuggling in our sleeping bags and blankets, we were all cozy warm for the night.

 

            Anchor duty began with Joy, then Kendall. He woke me at 5:00 a.m. At 5:30 a jon boat with a spot light came down the inlet to where we anchored. They shined their light along the shore on our port side which was closest to the shore. They came around two more times at 5:45 and 6:15. Crew members heard gunshots so it was presumed that the persons were involved in some sort of illegal hunting perhaps for deer.

 

            At sunrise, when the crew went on deck, they found that it was covered with ice. We would have to wait a little for the deck to become clear and safe.

 

            Breakfast was biscuits and gravy. And then we were underway. We scrambled to get to the next lock, but there was a delay which continued to about one hour. We were informed that a tug was moving upstream into the lock. 

 

            After a long wait, we see the roof of the pilot house on the tug and expect to be on our way soon. But we learn that this would be the first lock-through of the captain. He appeared to be performing some sort of drill within the lock where he detached from the barge, moved to his port, and then reassembled.

 

            Finally we get the green light to enter John C. Stennis Lock. This was at mile marker 334.7. Most of these past five locks have taken about 15-20 minutes to pass and be lowered 25-30 feet.

 

            At mile marker 313. 0, we leave Mississippi and enter Alabama. We head for Marina Cove (Carrollton, Alabama) to anchor. The dock space had been taken so we were forced to anchor, but it was too narrow. So J.C. decided we would tie up to the Corps of Engineers barge that was in the cove. The marina owner approved our tie-up to the barge. We were able to use the dinghy to go into the marina to do laundry and shower. Of course, there was only one washer and one drier so laundry duty took from late afternoon until late at night. At the campground we were able to refill all of our water bottles.

 

            During the night Joy heard running water, and she found water in the bilge so she turned off water. After a breakfast of blueberry muffins, J.C. and Ron worked to fix the galley faucet, which will need further work.

 

            The schooner got underway about 9:35 a.m., and we headed for the Bevill Lock and Dam. Near the Lock was the Tom Bevill Resource Management & Visitor Center, which is housed in a southern style mansion with white pillars. Also there is the 108 foot snagboat Montgomery. The mission of the sternwheeler would have been too pull up fallen trees that were interfering with river channel navigation.

 

            Downstream, we meet up with a tug, Norm Kellum. J.C. decided to follow the tug all the way to its destination, which was Demopolis, Alabama. This would be the first attempt of the crew cruising at night. J.C. felt the tug would lead us through the river and help keep us in the channel.

 

            We entered Heflin Lock after the tug had passed through. It was near sunset so we would be playing catch-up to the tug in the growing darkness. The whole crew was needed to use the spot light, record the mile markers, watch the depth finder, and to steer. After about an hour, the schooner caught up with the tug.

 

            Supper was chicken and biscuit casserole. Extras added to the casserole included beans, more chicken, and chicken noodle soup.

 

            The crew continued with the same procedure until about 1:00 a.m. when the boat arrived at Demopolis, Alabama. After about four attempts, the schooner was able to be brought into the Demopolis Yacht Basin and tied up. The shallowness and narrowness of the marina required the use of the dinghy to help in maneuvering the schooner. It was brought in stern first and pulled from the fuel dock and backed into and tied up. It probably took about two hours. So by about 3:00 a.m. the crew was able to hit their bunks for a well-deserved rest.

            Today was Saturday and designated as a day of rest. The Demopolis Yacht Basin includes a camp ground, boat repair shop, sales shop, restaurant, motel, boat dock, laundry and shower, and recreation room.  It is located about one mile from downtown Demopolis.

 

            Some of the crew went into town to the hardware/lumber store for J.C. to purchase a new kitchen faucet to replace the inoperable one. Later the female crew members took the courtesy car and headed back for more sight-seeing. They visited several nice shops around the square. The eating establishment recommended to us was Ms Beavers. We entered, but the business was closed. However, the young chef offered to feed us anyway. We each enjoyed her delicious soup and a barbeque pork sandwich.

 

            The men were still working on the faucet. Those not working did other tasks such as taking a shower, doing more laundry, reading a book, watching football on the television—Seattle beat the Washington Redskins.

 

            Tonight we all enjoyed heat because we were at the marina.

 

            Had waffles, got underway at 8:38, are at mile marker 213.2, and head toward the Demopolis Lock & Dam, and entering the Black Warrior River. We have to wait for about one hour for a tug to pass through.  While waiting the tug master Tim Parker informed J.C. that the railroad bridge ahead was not up so the schooner would not be able to pass under.  Through his generosity of time and effort, we were able to learn whom to contact in order to get the bridge raised to its full height. It was Sunday morning so we were concerned that we would have trouble getting someone to come. With a phone call, we were told that the bridge would be raised by noon.

 

            The spillway at the Demopolis Dam & Lock was quite impressive. We could see that water tumbled over huge rocks rounded and smoothed by centuries of moving water. After passing through the lock, we could look back and see the water as it spreads out and cascades over rock ledges.

 

            Heading downstream at mile marker 201.6, we can see the remains of the old Rooster Bridge. According to the Nitty-Gritty Cruise Guide  by Fred Myers in 1979, when the river was at a record level of 24 feet above flood stage, a tugboat Cahaba was unable to buck the current and the tug was pushed sideways under the Rooster Bridge. Eyewitnesses watched the tug disappear into the muddy water and they could hear it being banged and scraped along the underside of the bridge. Miraculously it popped up on the other side. Three crewmembers were badly shaken but not seriously injured.

 

            Along the river banks, we see rock walls on one side and natural vegetation on the other. Spanish moss can be seen hanging from the trees. Many long twines indicate that kudzu may flourish along the river bank.

            Our last dam & lock was as Coffeeville at mile marker 116.6. Tonight would be again a marathon all-nighter. The same procedure would continue, and the schooner would arrive at Mobile Alabama after a 100 mile last leg journey.

 

            The arrival at Mobile was around 11:00, but the harbor is so large and busy that cruising to the downtown area took about an hour. We planned to tie up at the Mobile Convention Center, but two boats were already tied up. However, one was our friends on the Grampa Woo III so they generously offered to let us tie up to their boat and use their stern “porch” as a walkway to the convention center promenade.

 

            The Convention Center is right in downtown Mobile so it was easy to walk around the area. The crew would remain for a few days to set up the boat’s top mast and sails. Linda and Kendall departed for home. My goal was to complete the river journey. Kendall would be back in a few days to begin the salt water journey