Traversing the Missouri River

 

 

Because this was the first voyage of the schooner, the Captain tooted his fog horn, which is required on boats to be used at appropriate times.  Other systems were also tested in this being the commissioning of the Spirit of Independence.  The Missouri River mile marker at LaBenite Park is 350 which is the mileage that we would have to travel to its end at St. Louis where it joins the Mississippi River.

 

            Our first stop was planned to be at the Corps of Engineers barge and office at Napoleon, Missouri.  Diesel fuel and water would be loaded.  The first leg of the journey was quiet, peaceful, and beautiful. A flock of white pelicans lingered not far from the launching site as they rested behind a jetty. The electric facility at Sibley, Missouri brought out some of its workers who cheered and waved as the schooner went by.

 

            Enroute the depth finder malfunctioned.  This was a necessary and important system, which would have to be replaced.  So the fuel stop at Napoleon would be lengthened to an extra night.  The boat took on 494 gallons of diesel fuel at a cost of $2.45/gallon.  While moored at Napoleon, the crew swabbed the deck.  The Missouri River mud was so perdurable that the deck had to be scrubbed. 

 

The following day, while the Captain and second mate went back to the boat shop to rig up a secondary depth finder, the remaining crew enjoyed the day in Napoleon, Missouri.  It is a river town, and it is evident that people who live near a great river love and enjoy it.  It is part of their lifestyle.  They fish and hunt on the river.  We were told of the “jumping fish.”  They apparently will jump right into the boat.  One fisherman told how he had been hit by them on his back and shoulder so hard he thought he might fall out of his boat.  He had never eaten one, but he knew people who claimed they were pretty good.  They were Asian Carp.  Was this a fish tale?

 

            The town itself is located on a crest above the river.  It is a small town with few stores. The general store, which had been in business for about 118 years, just recently closed.  Atop the hill was St. Paul Church of Christ and St. Paul Cemetery (1875.)  A memorial overlook north of the church and cemetery provided a great view of the Missouri River and the fields beyond.

 

            At a garage sale in town, it was discovered that large gourds were being sold.  They make good bird houses for Purple Martins.  The Gosnells could place these gourds at their home in Stockton, Missouri.  Luckily, Marsha could take them back to the boat shop when she came to Napoleon on an errand.

 

            Next to the Corps of Engineers office and barge was McIntyre Park, which was shaded by big cottonwood, oak, and sycamore trees.  It was a cool place in which to sit in the shade with a cool breeze and read books while waiting for parts and repairs.  Locals Jerry and Sylvia and their two granddaughters Gabriela (age 9) and Ariana (age 4) came down to see the “beautiful boat” moored down the hill from their home.  After conversing, Jerry offered to drive to Buckner (Casey’s) for pizza.  Sylvia and the girls brought pop, cookies, and chips to add to our communal feast.

 

            Jerry and Sylvia were part of a group of people through churches in the area who worked to collect money for the victims of Hurricane Katrina.  They collected $10,000 which bought enough items of food, water, and necessities to fill two flatbeds.  The couple would be heading to Hattiesburg, Mississippi on the weekend to be part of the delivery group. It was part of the way the Midwest was able to help those who had suffered from the hurricane.

 

            The next day was spent pretty much as the previous day.  Spending time in the park and reading.  The boat part arrived too late so it would be another day before departure.  Half the crew mutinied and returned home for showers and air conditioning.  That is the hardest part to get accustomed to on any boat in the summertime—the heat and trying to sleep.  Kristin Brink, Tony and Zach Gunter brought Bar BQ sandwiches from Grain Valley aboard for the remaining crew and captain. As soon as sunset, the mosquitoes come searching for victims.

 

            On Sunday, September 11^th, the boat had its new depth finder, and the crew readied for departure.  The boat moved  downstream at about 10 mph.  The big John Deere engine was just loafing along, enjoying the 6 mph current underneath the hull.

 

About 80 miles were covered when the Grand River near Brunswick, Missouri was reached.  Along the way we saw Bald Eagles, Killdeer, and one Osprey.  Each morning and evening, a variety of swallows skimmed across the top of the water finding their food of insects.

 

            It was planned to anchor a few miles up the Grand River near Brunswick, but the boat’s draft of seven feet caused us to become grounded.  Luckily we were able to free ourselves, so the captain decided to anchor near the mouth of the Grand River.  We learned later that we were on the opposite side of the deeper channel, but it was a fairly small river.

 

            As we anchored in the Grand River, we heard a THUD and SPLASH on the port side. We thought something had come loose, plunged to the deck, and fell overboard.  As we debated this, another THUD and SPLASH was heard on the starboard side.  This time a crew member saw that it was a good-sized fish.  We had been hit by the jumping Asian Carp.  It was true.  We saw more of them as we settled into anchoring position on the river.

 

            The next morning, the Captain took the dinghy out to check water depths.  As he sat in the dinghy to head out, he noticed a small snake had taken up residence overnight.  The snake was quickly dispatched with an oar.

 

            The day was spent as yesterday.  The boat motored again downriver.  The crew watched for markers and for birds.  Again the crew witnessed more Bald Eagles; two of them made a great display of circling and soaring above the river, just like an air show. Wonderful!  Great Blue Herons were very plentiful along the river.  They would be spotted about every five minutes: each lone heron seemed to have his own stretch of river.

 

            The companies along the river included either sand companies or granaries. The city of Glasgow, Missouri is recognized by a church and its steeple sitting high above the river.

 

            A few miles before Interstate-70 the beautiful cliffs of Missouri come into view. They make a lovely backdrop for the schooner as it passed. High above the boat we could see folks waving from the Les Bourgesie winery gardens.  Next stop: Cooper’s Landing. 

 

            It was planned to anchor in Perkey Creek near Cooper’s Landing, but it is a small creek.  Fortunately, Mike Cooper motored out and invited the boat to moor at his thirty-foot dock.  The captain planned to head in; but midway, because of the swirling current in the tiny harbor, he changed his mind and turned his bow downstream.  After lots of scrambling by the crew and tugging by the three men on the dock, they were able to bring the boat in to moor at the dock.  It was a tricky maneuver.

 

            Cooper’s Landing is about 15 minutes from Columbia, Missouri.  Besides its location on the Missouri River, the Katy Trail (mile 163) runs through the property.  Owner Mike Cooper has a small camp ground and offers outside dining and often times music is also provided.

 

            Delicious Thai food is prepared by Chim and her partner.  It was their day off (Monday,) but they came and cooked us a very delicious assortment of Thai food: Cashew chicken, Shrimp fried rice, and Ta Pai. Collin Brink and friend Darren joined us.  They claim many college students come here for Chim’s food.  It was delicious.

 

            A newscaster from the local television station came to do a segment about the schooner.  J. C. presented Mike Cooper with an insignia he designed for his schooner.

 

            Our stay at Cooper’s Landing was extended for one more day because of more “maiden voyage” maintenance.  The crew is at leisure to motor in the dinghy to the sandbar across the river.  It was very shallow—even for the dinghy.  Joy Waters waded in pulling the dinghy.  Age has its privileges.

 

            Because of the convenience to the Katy Trail, crew members take the advantage of walking parts of the trail.  On mile 163 is “Boat Henge,” which is a hilarious comparison with Great Britain’s Stone Henge. There is an arrangement of discarded boats planted vertically into the ground.

 

            Residing in the Cooper’s Landing harbor is a Canadian goose, who seems to be quite tame.  He followed the dinghy, and he was not bothered by people walking near him.  It seems he found a good place in which to reside.

 

            One of our crew had to depart and return to work.  Trudy Gosnell left before supper.  We had a choice of three: BarBQ chicken, Bar BQ ribs, or Pork fritter, all which were reported as delicious.  In the evening, we were entertained by two local vocalists singing river ballads, many of their own creation. One singer/writer was on the faculty at Missouri University.

 

            On Wednesday September 14^th, we again are waiting for another part which shows up in the morning.  It was an overcast day far cooler than what we have experienced so far.  Our goal today was the Osage River. We passed by our capital building at Jefferson City, Missouri.  The building is just as impressive a sight when seen from the river as it is from the city streets.

 

At the Osage River we set one anchor and also tied up to the jetty rocks.  Then in the dinghy we explored the river. An eating establishment called the River Ratz had reduced its open hours to weekends now that summer is over.  We returned to the boat, and the male crew members offer to make supper.  We have Dinty Moore stew, crackers with pimentos, fruit cocktail, graham crackers, and coffee.

 

The next morning the crew woke up to the aroma of breakfast preparation.  After dressing and and entering the galley, it was  learned that it was 4 a.m.  Joy and Melvin awakened early, couldn’t sleep, made breakfast.  After some confabulation, the crew returned to their bunks.

 

            An early departure was planned because arrival at Washington, Missouri is expected between noon and one.  The United States Coast Guard Auxiliary of Missouri Flotilla planned a small celebration. 

 

            Enroute we passed several barges plus we are tailed by a barge throughout the journey down river.  Some of the barges are putting riprap down to bolster a jetty.  The Corps of Engineers has  done an admirable job keeping  America’s rivers navigable.  The jetties direct the water to make a deeper and faster channel for the commercial barge travel.  And the river has been straightened out so that it does not resemble what Lewis and Clark saw two  hundred years ago.

 

            We continue to see Bald Eagles as we move down river.  It is with gratitude that the crew can enjoy the birds that were once on the endangered list because of man’s use of DDT.  Hopefully, our government will continue to remain a strong conservator of our national wildlife.

 

            We arrived at Washington Missouri around 3 p.m. The Coast Guard Auxiliary welcomed our arrival with some boats meeting us.  Because J.C. did not want to leave his boat while it was at anchor near the channel, the escort boat brought  Mayor Richard Stratman of Washington out to formally welcome the Spirit.  He presented J.C. and the crew with special ball caps with “Washington, Missouri.” J.C. gave him a cap sent to the Mayor from Mayor Stewart of Independence.  After the brief ceremony, we moved the boat to the “non busy” side of the river.

 

The Flotilla members wished us to anchor near the town river access ramp, but it was too close to the main channel of swift-running water. For the rest of our overnight stay, J.C. preferred a spot across from the town, which was out of the channel. 

 

Two anchors were placed upstream.  Because of the swift-running water, an anchor watch was assigned to the crew.  Each crew member took a two-hour watch. This procedure was used throughout the trip whenever the boat was anchored in the actual river rather than the mouth of a small adjoining river.

 

            After Spirit was secured, the crew received shore leave and went into town. One member of the Missouri Flotilla offered to ferry us to town in his boat. He would take us back to the boat  when we were through eating and exploring. He told us that Washington was Missouri’s busiest port, and we enjoyed all the activities at the boat ramp.

 

            Washington is a river town situated up the sloping hill.  During our meal in the patio at the Landing restaurant, a heavy rain began. The crew finished eating under an umbrella. It continued to pour as the crew made its way back to the boat.  Our gracious ferry-boat host gave the crew a six-pack of Budweiser, which was enjoyed along the route.    We should have been giving Him something instead.

 

Because the boat has a full-service kitchen, we are able to enjoy a variety of good meals: pancakes, scrambled eggs, egg McMuffins, biscuits and gravy, macaroni and cheese with meat sauce, chicken salad and asparagus for example.

 

After we left Washington around 10:05 a.m., we headed toward St. Louis, Missouri.  Not too far past Washington, we began to see Great White Egrets.

 

That evening the boat was anchored about thirteen miles from the confluence of the Missouri and the Mississippi.  The mooring took place behind a jetty with the bow line anchored to a piling  and the stern line anchored to a tree.  While working to make the lines taut, the stern ran into rocks on the shoreline.  Luckily we are in a steel-hulled boat!  After both lines were tightened, the boat was secure.

 

To pass time in the evening some of the crew played Rummy, Chess, Scrabble, or Uno.  Since the sun was setting by 7:30 p.m., the crew turned in fairly early.  Each bunk has a reading light and a fan, which helped during the very hot nights.

 

Another reason for early bed time was the weariness factor.  Even though river touring is fun, there exists a naturally heightened tension.  Navigating these rivers requires constant attention.  And paying constant attention to any endeavor expends energy. It is a delightful energy to experience, but it naturally wears on anyone.  So even with the evening warmth of a waning summer night, sleep was welcome.

 

A very thick fog enveloped the boat and crew the next morning.  By 8:15, the fog had burned off, and the crew began preparation for cast-off.  The boat headed for the merging of the Missouri with the Mississippi. One can vividly see the merging of the brown, muddy Missouri River with the more dark blue of the Mississippi.  Many bird species are found in this area where sandbars exist.  Ringed-bill gulls are added to the bird list.

 

 

NEXT:  The Mississippi and beyond……………by Linda and Ken Brink